Not "experts" at anything...but wise in years. Over thirty years living off grid, at the lake, in the bush with wildlife neighbors; life is an adventure, at least that's what they say! So follow along if you may.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
The 2013 Season has started!
Update
from the Park Office. All the lakes are clear of ice, including Isaac
and Lanezi (which are traditionally the last to clear). There is still
lots of snow on the portages though. The Kibbee Portage is mostly clear;
the Indianpoint / Isaac Portage is 70% snow covered with up to 12
inches of snow; the Isaac River Portage is 90% covered with 6 to 36
inches of snow; the Babcock Portage is mostly clear. First West Side
Paddlers left yesterday afternoon and the first Circuit Paddlers were
booked to leave today. See lots more info at my new facebook page www.facebook.com/Bowronlake
Monday, April 8, 2013
Some People just cannot wait for Paddling Season!
Dave Jorgensen of the Bears Paw Cafe (Wells B.C.) came out for a visit yesterday to practice his canoeing moves for an up and coming Canoe Instructors Certification Exam.... but low and behold the lake was still solid..... apparently that's not a good enough reason to stop him from practicing!! LOL
Shared from Dave Jorgensen's YouTube posting.... Thanks Dave for sharing your antics!
Shared from Dave Jorgensen's YouTube posting.... Thanks Dave for sharing your antics!
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Welcome to Today!!
In both a literal and a technological sense.... First of all Happy Easter to all!
Went for our daily walk this morning and on a whim we took our new phone with us. For two reasons really... first because it's Easter and someone might call and second because the installer told us that it had a wonderful long distance range, so we thought we might put it to the test. And surprise, surprise.... down by the lake we are interrupted by a BRRRRING!
Good thing I took the pictures of the Eagle before the first ring......
So here we are in the middle of the wilderness sharing Easter wishes with family... by phone.... outside.... walking on hard pack snow, watching the eagles fly away, in the bright spring sunshine! Talk about surreal.
In the course of our conversation we learn that the family is working in the garden, they planted the peas two weeks ago and are getting the plot ready for more.... obviously they don't live in the Bowron. I'm afraid our pea seeds will have to wait a little longer!! Although the snow is going down by leaps and bounds, water is running daily, bare spots are cropping up and the road is getting muddy... we still have a ways to go yet.
The lake is all clear of snow! Another few spells of daily melt and nightly freeze and we might be digging our skates out!
Went for our daily walk this morning and on a whim we took our new phone with us. For two reasons really... first because it's Easter and someone might call and second because the installer told us that it had a wonderful long distance range, so we thought we might put it to the test. And surprise, surprise.... down by the lake we are interrupted by a BRRRRING!
Good thing I took the pictures of the Eagle before the first ring......
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| Spring is springing.... you can see the buds swelling on the tree! |
So here we are in the middle of the wilderness sharing Easter wishes with family... by phone.... outside.... walking on hard pack snow, watching the eagles fly away, in the bright spring sunshine! Talk about surreal.
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| Dick talking to family on the new phone.... that is our house behind him. |
In the course of our conversation we learn that the family is working in the garden, they planted the peas two weeks ago and are getting the plot ready for more.... obviously they don't live in the Bowron. I'm afraid our pea seeds will have to wait a little longer!! Although the snow is going down by leaps and bounds, water is running daily, bare spots are cropping up and the road is getting muddy... we still have a ways to go yet.
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| Bare ground!!! even though it is still fenced in with snowbanks! |
Sunday, March 10, 2013
Another Ski Report by Bryne K. -- Feb. 25 - Mar. 2, 2013
Thank you to Bryne K. for sharing with me his recent X-country ski trip on the Bowron Lakes AND for letting me post it here. For a little clarification, Bryne only planned to ski as far as McLeary Lake (if possible), making the Moxley Cabin his home base. He did not plan on skiing the full circuit, so with this in mind his trip was indeed successful!! Also he did not pull a sled, opting instead for a backpack on his back.... Bryne's report:
Bowron
Lake Cross Country Ski/Snowshoeing 2013
In the past, I have had the opportunity to
kayak the entire Bowron Lake circuit on two occasions. ( 2006 & 2012) I have always been fascinated with the
thought of travelling through area different times of the year and an entirely
different method of travel. My plan was
to ski/snowshoe solo and more than comfortable doing so. I would be carrying a satellite Spot device
with me and have people receiving daily location updates. My commitment for this trip happened last
October. After browsing, googling on
line, I came across Sandy Phillip’s name.
Sandy and her husband Dick have resided in the Bowron Lakes area for
many years.
I initiated contact with Sandy back in
November and she was phenomenal, providing many trip insights,valuable
planning and logistics about the circuit. She also made me aware of a local
guide,Mr. Dave Jorgensen. Dave enlightened
me with crucial information,important for trip planning. I would like to sincerely thank the Phillips
and Mr. Dave Jorgensen for their role in this successful trip.
As the final commitment was established and
the serious planning began, I set a lofty goal of snowshoeing/skiing out to
McCleary cabin. I was fully prepared to
only ski/snowshoe whatever the elements and conditions would allow. I had a total of five days available for
this excursion. Realistically with this
amount of time, skiing/snowshoeing as far as Lynx cabin along Isaac Lake would
be the target. I figured that lots can
and will probably change once I know exactly the conditions I am up against.
My journey began on Monday February 25th, driving
from my hometown of Entwistle, Alberta to Wells,B.C. Stayed at the Wells hotel for the evening.
Tuesday February 26 Sunny & Clear Temp. – 10 C
Drove the remaining 30-40 km to Bowron
Lake. Waited for Dick & Sandy for I
definitely felt that it was important to touch base prior to embarking
out. Gave them a copy of trip
itinerary. I received indication from
Dick & Sandy that there has been very limited travel on Isaac Lake this
winter. My approach, planning, etc to
utilize common sense as a guideline, go until it just doesn’t feel right. At 0945,embarked off on my solo adventure!
Followed the Kibee Portage to the lake
snowshoeing. Upon completion, switched
to skis. As one entered the lake via
the narrow slough,soaked my left foot within the first 100 m. Sandy warned me about the slough however I
just had to make a splashing debut! A
few soft spots,however the skiing on Kibee was quite good. The morning started
off sunny,however was overcast at this stage.
Entered Kibee-Indianpoint Lake portage and snowshoed to the beginning of
IndianPoint Lake. It was here that I
decided to have lunch as the wind and flurries became noticeable.
Skiing/snowshoeing on Indianpoint Lake more
difficult. Soft,slushy spots more
frequent and continuous. Several spider
funnels present and avoided. They were
a good watering source for water bottles.
I treated the water with a chlorine-dioxide pristine Part A-Part B solution,just
didn’t want to take chances. Skiied
until I was 1.8 km from the cabin,switched to snowshoes. Snow really slushy and clumping on skis. Honestly,snowshoes weren’t a whole lot
better. However, as I discovered a long time ago, One Must Endure!! Arrived at IndianPoint cabin at 1515 and
settled in for the evening.
Wednesday February 27th Sunny
& Clear Temp. -5 C
Packed up and off Indianpoint Lake Cabin by
0810. Continued to snowshoe and would
until I reached the beginning of Isaac Lake.
As one reached the channel,stayed off to the side due to suspicious
ice. Near the end of Indianpoint
leading to the beginning of Isaac Lake portage trail, one had to watch their
step and walk off to the far side near trees due to open water. On Isaac Portage,snow was quite deep and
didn’t make real good time due to snow depth and limited use to date. Low and behold, there it was, the big
one!! The emergence of Isaac Lake
through the trees! Realizing that I am
truly at Isaac combined with limited travel this winter really sent an eerie
feeling over me. This moment felt
actually a bit daunting!! Definite
signs of water overflow along parts of the shoreline.
However, as soon as one began to ski, I
quickly became more at ease. This was
due to really good ice and snow
conditions. A lot less slush on Isaac
than Indianpoint Lake. However a bit
tough breaking trail with little to no glide.
One was trudging through the snow versus skiing. Snow depth is about a half to three quarters
up ski pole starting from the top of bottom basket. (just above ski tip) By noon, completed the entire west arm and
turned onto the main arm heading east towards Moxley cabin. My two previous kayaking trips passed Moxley
both times. Look forward to
experiencing this site for the first time!
Very tired by the time I reached destination. Really pushing myself and should have stopped sooner for lunch
and melted snow. When arriving,one was greeted
with tons of snow. Had to find a long
limb to stand up on snow bank along side of cabin to clear snow along the
outside vent stack pipe. It was
completely plugged with snow. Afternoon
spent reading, relaxing, sawing and chopping wood.
Thursday February 28th Sunny
Temp. -4 C
Beautiful sunrise, entire Isaac Lake valley
coated with an inversion. Took some
morning pictures of the cabin and surrounding area. Sunny and quite pleasant as I departed towards Lynx creek on my
day ski. Continuing my journey along
endless Isaac Lake. Snow conditions (ice)
continue to cooperate. In fact, as one
skis towards Lynx,pace seems to pickup.
While travelling, saw a small animal a few hundred feet ahead of me. Looked like possibly a lynx. I was able to view this figure for quite a
while until it detoured into the trees.
Skied 7.9 km to Lynx in just over 2 hours. Took many pictures of the breathtaking, picturesque snow covered
peaks. Everything is a continuous
panoramic view! Placed backpack &
skis up against cabin door, also went across bridge and saw huge pile of snow
exactly where I had my tent set up last Autumn.
Was going to make soup inside the
cabin. Unfortunately it was locked from
the inside. Instead,prepared soup on
the front steps. Packed up and departed
Lynx just after noon. Back at Moxley around 1400 ish, preparing for second night
here. Quite a snowfall commencing at
1530. Looking out from the cabin
couldn’t see out towards the lake. This
snowfall lasted at least 3-4 hours.
Nice to be nestled within the cozy cabin confines, an opportunity to read
and write for the remainder of day.
Friday March 01st Overcast Skies Temp. + 1 C
Up really early this morning and after
breakfast as I was packing up, saw a weasel.
This weasel ran right by the cabin and it looked as though it was
carrying the leg of a snowshoe hare in its mouth. I managed to get a decent picture of this weasel. Finished packing and said my goodbyes and
thank-yous to Moxley Creek Cabin. Off by
0750.skiied towards the west arm,snow a bit sticky due to warmer
temperatures. Before one
realized, turned south for the final Isaac lake stretch. Finished skiing Isaac just before 1100. Overall, the Isaac conditions were quite
good. Stopped at the portage head to
melt snow for drinking water and had lunch.
Put on the snowshoes and quickly hiked 2.0 km stretch to the beginning
of Indianpoint Lake. Just prior to
1200,arrived at Indianpoint cabin.
Decided that I would trek all the way to Kibee Lake. Indianpoint Lake continues to be soft, slushy
however safe. Continued utilizing
snowshoes and made decent time across the lake. Stopped at one of the funnel spider water holes to top off water
bottles.
Just after 1500,arrived at the IPL – Kibee
portage trail and proceeded towards Kibee Lake. Weather has remained overcast and warm throughout the day. At Kibee Lake covered the 1.3 km stretch to
the cabin. Alas, the cabin at
1600!! Covered a total distance of 19
km in just around 8 hours. This would
be my final night alone in the wilderness and I took the time to reflect on the
past four days. I felt the combination
of snowshoeing & skiing worked well.
If anything,a break from each other and giving certain muscles a rest
when switching. Snowshoeing was great
for all the portage trails, while skiing on Isaac was the only way to go! I wore a backpack and was more than
comfortable doing so. I believe there
are advantages and disadvantages and comes down to individual comfort and
preference.
Very difficult to describe how it feels to
be alone in the wilderness. Never saw
anyone or signs of. There was no
railway,powerlines, cell towers,etc.
Never even heard a plane or helicopter.
You have to believe and trust in yourself. Previous proper planning will prevent poor performance. Being by myself, I discovered it was a whole
lot easier to win an argument and became quite an expert on numerous subjects.
Saturday March 02nd Overcast Skies Temp. + 1 C
Woke up at 0715,reward for yesterday’s
long,hard ski & snowshoe. After
breakfast and packing, departed Kibee cabin at 0900. Skied the remaining 900 m to the end of lake. Skiing through the slough,bypassed snow/ice
buildup so I didn’t repeat the splashing debut of day # 1! At the portage trail, switched to snowshoes
and covered remaining 3.4 km to Dick & Sandy’s. Excursion completed at 1020 and a real sense of accomplishment
and fulfillment came over me. I was
able to fulfill all objectives, learned a lot and established a template for one
day under the proper conditions and length of time to complete the circuit in
its entirety! I hope whoever reads this
enjoys as much as I have writing and sharing!!
Monday, February 25, 2013
Ma Moose and Other Winter Critters
Winter Critters abound at Bowron! We will see either them or their tracks pretty near everyday during our outtings.
| Regal Eagle, one of several that hunt along the river |
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| Quick and Quark the Raven couple, have been showing up for their morning feedings every winter for the past 10 years |
| One of the Ravens (can't tell the difference between them) eating it's breakfast |
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| Ma Moose #1 with her twins |
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| Ma Moose #1 and her twins again |
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| Grouse in a tree.... no that is not the name of a recipe! |
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| Squirrel in a tree.... recipe of not, Charley would love to get ahold of this one! |
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| Wolf track.... and that is all I care to see of him while out skiing alone! |
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| Ma Moose #2 only has one calf... |
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| ...who is hiding behind the tree..... 'You can't see me!' |
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| Ma #2 and little one making a break for it! |
Two Weeks, Two Trips
First Trip by Rick A.: Feb 8 to 10, 2013
Rick left on a solo ski around the Bowron Lake Chain, 10am Friday February 8th, 2013 with the hopes of completing the full circuit in his allotted 7 days. He opted to travel counterclockwise starting on Bowron and ending with Kibbee. The weather that week hadn’t been very cold with the temps ranging between –10 C and 6 C during overnight and day recordings.
Rick headed out with snowshoes and skis, the latter being refitted downhill skis with sturdy Australian made Teflon bindings that fit any kind of boot. This was Rick’s second time on the Bowron with this very neat ski configuration. He reappeared on our doorstep two days later (Feb. 10) at 2pm. This is the report he left with me.
Bowron River had some snow bridges over it, but none looked very stable. He stayed to the far right following along the toe of Sugar Loaf Mt. to avoid a river crossing. As it was he had to cross it once or twice and got a bit wet. There was open water on the far side of the Bowron River were it joins with Swan Lake and if he were headed for the River Cabin he would have had to find good ice further along Swan, cross over and double back. As it was, he was headed for Pat Point. The overflow was worse on Swan Lake and his skis kept cutting thro into about 7 inches of water and slush, so he changed over to snowshoes and made Pat Point for the night.
Feb. 9th, Saturday morning saw him out before sunrise with the hopes of finding a firmer crust before the sun appeared, but it was still too warm and his skis cut thro the top crust as soon as he hit the lake. He headed towards the middle of the lake in search of better conditions but only found the same. Giving up about half way down Spectacle Lake he turned and headed back. The conditions were so wet that he was worried about what he might find at Lanezi / Cariboo River. At Pat Point he recorded the daytime temp of 5.9 C and nighttime temp at –6 C.
Feb. 10th, he left Pat Point at 9am and arrived in the parking lot of BRM at 2pm. Regardless of the conditions he had a great time. There was no indication of anyone else having been out there, except the tracks of 3 or 4 wolves that were following a moose, and a cougar that had passed by in the night. It was a clear night last night and he had no problem on skis the whole way back.
Second Trip By Tom M., Shannon M. and Jaclyn B. Feb. 18 to 23, 2013
On Monday February 18, 2013 this trio headed out on the West Side to enjoy their week off from studies. Their end destination was the Moxley Creek cabin on Isaac Lake. They planned for a 7-day trip though they had food for 10… just in case! This is a summary of their trip.
Day 1 - Leaving around 10:30am, they snow-shoed over the well-beaten portage to Kibbee Lake before switching to skis. With no issues on the ice they settled into the Kibbee Cabin for the night.
Day 2 (Feb. 19) found the skiing good though wet with the sticky snow continually balling up on their skis. They spent the 2nd night in the Indianpoint Cabin.
On day 3 (Feb. 20) they encountered a heavy overflow of water causing slushy ice near the end of Indianpoint Lake. This far easterly section of Indianpoint Lake is traditionally a ‘danger spot’ as there are several warm up-wellings of water, which can interfere with good ice formation. They explored a bit before heading back to the Indianpoint Lake cabin.
Day 4 (Feb. 21) saw them off to Isaac Lake again. After the portage they traveled along the lake, but Tom said this area worried him the most as they kept falling thro the top crust of snow and they couldn’t really determine what lay beneath... plus it was very, very wet, “lots of overflow on Isaac Lake, very slushy for the first 3-4 kms.” Over most of this wet snow they were forced to use their snowshoes. When I asked them to guess the percentage of snowshoe use to ski use, they figured 60% snowshoes to 40% skis overall for the whole trip. They again turned back to spend the night at Indianpoint.
On the 5th morning (Feb. 22), an overnight windstorm laid the foundation for a nice wind-swept, hard-packed ski back to Kibbee, but little, sheltered Kibbee Lake did not get touched by the wind and again the wet snow kept sticking to their skis. It continued to snow for most of the night.
On their 6th and last day (Feb. 23), Kibbee Lake was wearing a new coat of soft, powdery snow providing a great ski back. But alas Tom, the heaviest of the trio broke thro some soft ice in the Kibbee Slough to receive his last bit of Bowron wetness. They said that the outer edges of the lakes seemed to be the heaviest with water overflow and presented the least favorable conditions.
Rick left on a solo ski around the Bowron Lake Chain, 10am Friday February 8th, 2013 with the hopes of completing the full circuit in his allotted 7 days. He opted to travel counterclockwise starting on Bowron and ending with Kibbee. The weather that week hadn’t been very cold with the temps ranging between –10 C and 6 C during overnight and day recordings.
Rick headed out with snowshoes and skis, the latter being refitted downhill skis with sturdy Australian made Teflon bindings that fit any kind of boot. This was Rick’s second time on the Bowron with this very neat ski configuration. He reappeared on our doorstep two days later (Feb. 10) at 2pm. This is the report he left with me.
Bowron River had some snow bridges over it, but none looked very stable. He stayed to the far right following along the toe of Sugar Loaf Mt. to avoid a river crossing. As it was he had to cross it once or twice and got a bit wet. There was open water on the far side of the Bowron River were it joins with Swan Lake and if he were headed for the River Cabin he would have had to find good ice further along Swan, cross over and double back. As it was, he was headed for Pat Point. The overflow was worse on Swan Lake and his skis kept cutting thro into about 7 inches of water and slush, so he changed over to snowshoes and made Pat Point for the night.
Feb. 9th, Saturday morning saw him out before sunrise with the hopes of finding a firmer crust before the sun appeared, but it was still too warm and his skis cut thro the top crust as soon as he hit the lake. He headed towards the middle of the lake in search of better conditions but only found the same. Giving up about half way down Spectacle Lake he turned and headed back. The conditions were so wet that he was worried about what he might find at Lanezi / Cariboo River. At Pat Point he recorded the daytime temp of 5.9 C and nighttime temp at –6 C.
Feb. 10th, he left Pat Point at 9am and arrived in the parking lot of BRM at 2pm. Regardless of the conditions he had a great time. There was no indication of anyone else having been out there, except the tracks of 3 or 4 wolves that were following a moose, and a cougar that had passed by in the night. It was a clear night last night and he had no problem on skis the whole way back.
Second Trip By Tom M., Shannon M. and Jaclyn B. Feb. 18 to 23, 2013
On Monday February 18, 2013 this trio headed out on the West Side to enjoy their week off from studies. Their end destination was the Moxley Creek cabin on Isaac Lake. They planned for a 7-day trip though they had food for 10… just in case! This is a summary of their trip.
Day 1 - Leaving around 10:30am, they snow-shoed over the well-beaten portage to Kibbee Lake before switching to skis. With no issues on the ice they settled into the Kibbee Cabin for the night.
Day 2 (Feb. 19) found the skiing good though wet with the sticky snow continually balling up on their skis. They spent the 2nd night in the Indianpoint Cabin.
On day 3 (Feb. 20) they encountered a heavy overflow of water causing slushy ice near the end of Indianpoint Lake. This far easterly section of Indianpoint Lake is traditionally a ‘danger spot’ as there are several warm up-wellings of water, which can interfere with good ice formation. They explored a bit before heading back to the Indianpoint Lake cabin.
Day 4 (Feb. 21) saw them off to Isaac Lake again. After the portage they traveled along the lake, but Tom said this area worried him the most as they kept falling thro the top crust of snow and they couldn’t really determine what lay beneath... plus it was very, very wet, “lots of overflow on Isaac Lake, very slushy for the first 3-4 kms.” Over most of this wet snow they were forced to use their snowshoes. When I asked them to guess the percentage of snowshoe use to ski use, they figured 60% snowshoes to 40% skis overall for the whole trip. They again turned back to spend the night at Indianpoint.
On the 5th morning (Feb. 22), an overnight windstorm laid the foundation for a nice wind-swept, hard-packed ski back to Kibbee, but little, sheltered Kibbee Lake did not get touched by the wind and again the wet snow kept sticking to their skis. It continued to snow for most of the night.
On their 6th and last day (Feb. 23), Kibbee Lake was wearing a new coat of soft, powdery snow providing a great ski back. But alas Tom, the heaviest of the trio broke thro some soft ice in the Kibbee Slough to receive his last bit of Bowron wetness. They said that the outer edges of the lakes seemed to be the heaviest with water overflow and presented the least favorable conditions.
Friday, February 8, 2013
Spider Holes and Wet Doggy Toes
Pictures from this mornings ski on Bowron Lake....
Dick and Charley inspecting a spider hole. This hole was allot bigger then we expected. It was the grey patch underneath Dicks ski that attracted our attention only to find that there was more 'hole' off to the side (which was invisible under the 2 cm of fresh snow). This hole went right through all the ice layers into the lake water.
A spider hole as seen while we first approach it . Notice the refrozen skiff of ice on top and the funnel shaped mouth below. The real dark spot just to the bottom left of the funnel mouth was Charleys warm nose on the ice.

To find a spider hole, just look for round grayish spots on the surface of the lake. They are really quite fascinating. They are called spider holes because in the milder temperatures, when they are first formed, they can have rivulets of melt water draining from the ice surface down into the holes, forming wet tentacles around the hole, resembling a spider with outstretched legs. These holes are about one week old and are now well on their way to refreezing and the tentacles from a few days ago are covered with snow.
Dick and Charley inspecting a spider hole. This hole was allot bigger then we expected. It was the grey patch underneath Dicks ski that attracted our attention only to find that there was more 'hole' off to the side (which was invisible under the 2 cm of fresh snow). This hole went right through all the ice layers into the lake water.
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Dick breaking through the top skim of ice, which is only about 2 cm thick... again this hole went right through all the layers of ice... and it was also big enough for a boot (with the attached leg ) to fall right through.... luckily I don't think the body would fit!

This picture shows that our ski poles are still occasionally breaking through the top crust of snow into the water / slush layer underneath (which sits on top of the main ice layer). Our skis are not cutting through......
But Charleys feet are... and he is only a 60 pound dog.
Another, small spider hole. Even though the top of the funnel is large, the bottom opening is small. If your boot fell through, you would get wet but at least your leg wouldn't go all the way through. 

To show just how slushy the lake was, these snowmobile tracks are from last weekends visitors. Looks like the under-track threw up quite a rooster tail of slush and water as it cut through the soft layers of ice cover. Athough the top layer of the lake is slowly re-solidifying... it still a bit slushy here and there.
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